Alex Mego’s was the clear winner within the men’s stream although joint second positioned climbers Tomoa and Jongwon had been only 60 factors shy of Alex’s 1060 complete. Margo completed on 840 points just 10 points ahead of second placed Kyra. Akyio and Katja finished on 730 factors every with Miho just behind on 700 factors. Jointly, Alex and Margo had been convincing winners of the 2017 MoonBoard Masters. It was similar to when I myself am preventing on a extremely exhausting route.
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On November 23, he flashed Freeman 5.13b and Sargantana Killer 5.13c all in at some point. Although they’re very top finish with the minimal grade required round 7b they climb nice. You actually have to squeeze them and work exhausting to keep your ft on. It was good to see that the opponents used holds from all 5 sets and never simply from 1 set. I think this exhibits we now have an excellent varied set blacksingles up now. One may argue that for Alexander Megos – still contemporary from his 9c first ascent Bibliographie at Céüse this summer time – repeating some of Switzerland’s most famous boulder issues established 15 or 20 years ago is nothing greater than a mere formality.
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Climbing this fast on steep, near-limit routes is a necessity, not a luxury (watch Adam Ondra…on nearly each route!). Reflecting back on my earlier teachings on energy techniques, the high-power output of the anaerobic lactic energy system wanes quickly between 30 and 60 seconds of sustained climbing (see graph). Therefore, efficiently climbing through Biographie’s long, vicious cruxes calls for doing them in under 60 seconds and, ideally, in less than 45 seconds.
Bayes Wilder, eleven, just completed up a climbing trip to Spain, and what a visit it was. The young American began off by onsighting his first 5.13b (8a), Pollastre de Granja. In the following days between projecting more durable routes, Wilder sent a big selection of 5.13’s including Meconi 5.13b, Pur et Dur 5.13c, and Esau Directe 5.13c.